I've machined my "Bud" rims because I decided that the spokes were to big, the video on the left shows me milling the rims,  the vid on the right shows the air bags doin' their thing.
I got lazy and didn't document the narrowing of the rear axle, I opted for a Dana 60 (3/4 ton) rather than a Dana 70 (1 ton axle) because parts are more available for the 60's, and I doubt I'll be loading this thing up more than a 3/4 ton axle will handle.
I just made a 1 ton axle out of the 3/4 ton, and added disc brakes in the process.

 Mouse over the thumbs for a small description or click on each for more resolution,


Ready to put the 4 link on the rear axle, I wasn't sure which way would be the best; parallel 4 link bars or triangulated bars, in the end it was the triangulated bars that won out because they had the right amount of clearance in the right places, and it was nice not having to make some kind of panhard bar or watts link to control the side to side movement of the axle. The only problem with the triangulated bars was that I was running a Dana 60 and you can't weld on the center part of the housing, so I had to make a bridge to mount the top bars to.






2011 Progress
I haven't gotten around to updating my web page yet this year but I've been getting a little progress on the '29, this year I was doing a lot of the little stuff that's not very exciting and consumes a lot of time, such as building the Enderle injector linkage (with provisions for a TPS sensor) building the exhaust, the driveshaft, the alternator brackets, rebuilding the running board splash apron, ect.
While I was wanting to get the motor fired this summer, I got caught up in all the little things that need to be done, currently (Aug. 11) mounting the aluminum radiator and electric fans and test fitted the hood (dropped the radiator shell 1-1/2" and leaned it back 2") and now I want to finish mount the hood, sides, ect. (I'm going to make the hood open up like a normal car hood, but I've got some ideas that will make it a little different) The radiator was built for a '32 Ford but the measurements were right and it really mounted a lot easier than I thought it would, and even sits back so the AC condenser has room on the front.
I think for a little project this winter I'll take on building the grill for the rad shell, I'm probably going to mill it out of a 3/8" thick slab of 6061.
Here's some of the pic's

First was the injector linkage, and I'll just put the video I made in to show that:

Next was the exhaust, I just made that out of 180 degree u-bends, just cut and weld into place, then grind the welds smooth (not quite as easy as it sounds) no pictures of that, sorry.

Next was the running board splash apron, originally that was made out of .035" thick steel and since it was in a spot where it could have some weight put on it occasionally I wanted to make it out of .125" thick steel, so I milled a .050" thick step on the top side of the .125" by 8" wide cold finished steel so I could weld the new top and original sides together: (as always, click on thumb for better pic)

Then I did the driveshaft, in the old days I would have just went to a junkyard and found one that was close and just cut it to length, but you know, since the axle yoke is only $60 and the trans yoke is $60, the tube weld yoke ends are $20 each and the tube is $30, what the heck, just build it new:

After running the air suspension up and down a few times I was trying to fit my alternator to the engine and got concerned a little bit because the alternator wouldn't quite fit with the suspension all the way down so I looked around for a smaller one and Nippondenso made a very small one, but it looked like it was only putting out about 50 amps which I didn't feel was enough, so I settled on a GM CS121 Alternator which was smaller than a standard GM, and put out 80 amps, so I figured that would work.

I had to mount it as high on the side as I could and had to make all the brackets to mount that, here's the finished brackets.

 

 

Some for 2012

I got a little done in 2012, originally I wanted to get the engine fired up but as I worked on that I was confronted with the fact that there was no place to run the wiring and mount the computers. (you know, the EFI; ride control; 4L80 transmission controller, ect., just your basic street rod hardware, right?) So I decided maybe I need to get the cab built so I had a place to put all that stuff.

First I pulled the cab off so I could lay it flat on the floor for the last time and get the holes cut for my AC vents. I also decided maybe to build some custom AC vents and mold them into the dash so they look like they're just stamped in the dash, here's some pictures of that, and a video below that:

Note how tight the Vintage air AC unit is under the dash, that is the smallest unit they make, too

I originally had mounted a 700R4 in my truck because some of my racing/transmission friends said it would be fine for a motor making 500 HP if you modify it right, but after worrying about it every since I put it in I finally did a little basic math: Let's see, it would cost around $1200 to build the 700R4 to handle 500 HP and then if it breaks I'll have to buy more high dollar parts to fix it, or I could get a 4L80E off of Craigslist for $300, get a transmission controller for $600, and then put a $130 shift kit which Transgo claims bumps the HP capacity to 750 HP. I guess it doesn't make much sence to not run a 4L80.

2013

Started a little late this year because winter decided to stick around until May, but started by figuring out how much I wanted to chop the roof and chopping the front windshield and doors 4", I'm also replacing all the original wood with steel as you can see in the middle picture below above the front window.

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Enderle TPS Linkage

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